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Wanted! The perfect tail?
I bought each queue in the market. I've done hundreds of experiments home to queue for two years ...... and I still have not hit in the tail for the perfect white Japanese paper. I need to tighten ... really hard! thin rice paper, mulberry, kozo, paper Unrue, etc. I need this glue to be transparent, colorless, water resistant, not yellow and does not re-absorb atmospheric moisture. I need this glue to be cheap and nonflammable. My kitchen is open to try anything. I've experimented with Elmers, Modpodge, decoupage, flour, baking soda, cornstarch, cake mix, sugar, glaze, jelly, gel hair, borax, soap, waxes (paraffin, soy and beeswax), potato starch, rice starch, tapioca beads, hot glue, silicone, putty and ........? Believe me the list goes on. My attempt to harden and seal handmade papers, but all have failed. They usually come too fragile, too fragile, too opaque, too yellow, or re-absorb moisture. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Have you tried in the bottle "reinforcements" found in fabric stores (and perhaps elsewhere)? Aleene is a brand, and at least one - perhaps called "Stiffy." Clear acrylic finishes for wood (as Rustoleum's Varathane **) could also work, and can be applied in layers, as many (drying) between those who want and stronger. ** It comes in semi-gloss and bright and very-very-mate, as well as inside / outside releases and water-based/non-water-based. The interior water-based, Gloss one is that I am familiar with most, and I think it turns yellow. (more about that particular brand can be found on this page: http://glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.htm) Also one of the "two part resin" should work (perhaps a polyester one like Art Castin '... I think the epoxy is a little more yellow time when exposed to ultraviolet light too, but they do better in the "layer" than polyester - though an artificial water Polytranspar said it the final surface may be appropriate.) (BTW, if you do not want to become transparent paper the application of the resin into the same, you need to be implemented first with a diluted white glue to seal, then dry.) There is more information on 2-part resins of this page if you want to check out: As http://glassattic.com/polymer/other_materials.htm for "white tails," do not know if the more expensive (or "industrial" white tails) would complete the drying process more rigid than any glue Elmer's All regular (but that is one of the cheapest on the market). UV resistant "Industrial" white glues are often more resistant to water, though (and some may be more too) that the cheaper white tails. (For additional stiffness, you can try to make several layers.) Translucent "clays liquid polymer "harden, but they must be baked (baked homemade) after application to cure them. Some brands will also maybe a little ice cream unless they are looking for sand and polished (which probably could not do), but that is irrelevant to what you're doing. (The brand and the brand Fimo Kato will be lighter than the Sculpey brand more available, though, but usually need to be sorted mail.) After baking, they can be covered with an acrylic as Varathane, etc. for the brightness and more visual depth. They are very resistant to water. More information here if you're interested: http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/LiquidSculpey.htm And here's something you might want to check from that page: ".... Eberhard Faber lesson in making a cone-shaped (or card?) Thick paper sleeves (with images on the surface "decoupaged" both sides with clay liqud), in which a small focus of a string of lights is placed http://tinyurl.com/aw7cf ... You can make tissue paper flowers, and then give a thin layer of liquid clay ... You can make paper products (such as a trash can) and paint with liquid clay ... after cooking, painting and decorating. Ellen "And there's more information about using similar paper on this page: http://glassattic.com/polymer/mixing_media.htm (look under "Role") Good luck! Diane B.
